Jis Tactile Pro For Mac

Jul 23, 2014 - We're gearing up for caps now. First round will be the full layout, but will be adding more over time. We'll also be offering the 1.5u and 0.75u. Sep 20, 2007 - huh, i think this is actually a mini Tactile Pro. But the interesting thing is that the Mac has no problems recognizing the. Is loud, I keep this JIS abomination connected so that if either I or my partner is sleeping,. This feature is not available right now. Please try again later. Japanese Cover - MacBook Pro No Touch Bar - US and ISO. And form-fitting, creating a responsive tactile feel that does not affect typing ability or speed.

A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to 'cam out' (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design.

Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point-not the lousy fake 'precision' screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more. Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake 'precision' screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at: 'Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as 'Phillips #00' or 'Torx T5.' These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a 'Size 8' dress.'

In other words, the quality of many 'precision' screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake 'precision' Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a 'precision screwdriver', it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more. The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13' does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB).

I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM. Some info here: '1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM' '.Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM.' Our Mid 2010 already had 'the latest EFI' (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant. The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.

I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are NOT the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the 'Give the author +30 points' button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in.

One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together.:-) THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

I also broke the fan connector off from my board, currently attempting to glue down with super glue. I agree with the others.

Photo could be updated to show spudger behind the connector wires (not at the corner of the connectors base as it currently, misleadingly shows). And perhaps even another line drawing or illustration showing how this fan connector fits into its socket on the board like a foot being put into a shoe. Toes down first, heel with wires clicks in last. Coming out the heel of the connector with wires comes up and out of the shoe first, then the toes. Be careful out there. I see people talking about gluing it back.

This is a connector that carries electricity, the electricity is what make the fan turn, not magic. The connector needs to be soldered back, not glued., as glue doesn’t conduct electricity. Any attempt at gluing it back will make further reparations very complicated, as the reparator will have to try to remove the glue you put in order to be able to solder back. Long story short, if you think gluing it back is a good idea, you should not be attempting this repair (changing the keyboard) in the first place. Ajouter un commentaire. I'm having a similar problem where I think I messed something with this step and now my computer is REALLY slow and I cant get any wifi.

Heres my story. I am going to put a SSD in place of my HDD so I also took the optical drive out of my mac to reduce the weight. If this matters I also changed the fan because that was broken. I'm wondering what the problem could be. One thing im confused by in the guide was step 5.

Am I supposed to remove that connector? If so how do I do that? I may have wiggled that a little trying to take it out. My computer will boot up very slowly but the mouse and keystrokles lag by about 4-5 seconds. The computer won't connect to wifi. The battery symbol has an 'x' inside the battery so I keep in plugged in. It also has my apps in the dock and my name in the upper right hand corner.

Any ideas what is wrong? If something is wrong how do I clone my old data onto my new hard drive? If you have any questions about my situation ill gladly answer them. I did on my 15' MBP (putting a SSD) without any problem but I did it on this very model 13' on a friend MBP and it seems the optical drive cable is dead (both drives works connected elsewhere ) the only other part i was not able to test separately is the data doubler from OWC that allows to fit a SSF in place of the optical drive. Do anybody experience this? The optical drive cable shows no sign of tearing i unplugged it very carefully BUT once disconnected during the optical drive extraction from its original location the cable might have touch the logical board (not sure just guessing) Any clues welcome!! - Ajouter un commentaire.

Having just done this - successfully, I might add - I need to make this guide a little more clear: Step 1: open the case. See every other tear down for the screw count. Step 1A: remove the battery connection.

Step 2/3: remove the fan as instructed. Step 3A: remove the optical drive. See the relevant tear down guide for specifics.

Step 3B: remove all of the connecters to the logic board: keyboard, backlight, trackpad, fan, speaker/subwoofer, battery status indicator, hard drive, optical drive, camera, display. See the logic board removal guide for more info. Step 3C: remove the screws holding the DC-in board and the logic board.

Remove the logic board. The remaining steps are pretty OK. Buy a new backlight and diffuser panel along with your new KB. I successfully completed this yesterday. Having never done Mac repairs myself the difficulty level made me nervous, however don't be afraid to give it a go! There are lots of little screws and parts but its not hard, more fiddly. In addition to the tools here consider getting some kind of segmented box or little containers to keep all the screws separate.

Web server software for mac os. Put it into iTunes Once you've ripped a DVD, you'll have to do something with the digital file that you've created.

Also when I opened it up my logic board was filthy with dust! Keep a microfiber cloth and perhaps a soft brush around the clean a little as you go. I had to use the Upper Case and Optical Drive guides to help with missing steps, but this guide is still very beneficial.

However as with most of the AMP range, put the club in the open setting and it seemed to sit a little squarer and the performance and flight is a lot better for mid to low handicaps. Cobra have continued the styling with a sock headcover that is more man-made than wool. Cobra amp-d ti drivers for mac.

One additional, very critical step I learned the hard way was to use compressed air to very gently blow out the receiver for the keyboard ribbon cable. After I had a series of keys fail (but the rest of the new keyboard working), I got a second replacement, which failed on the same keys. I ended up taking everything apart again, gently using compressed air to blow out the receiving area for the cable, replaced the keyboard ribbon cable, and everything works great!

I did this full replacement in 2013 after spilling coffee on my computer and it worked perfectly until last month. Last month my toddler poured a glass of water on the keyboard. I bought another replacement keyboard on amazon and did the full install.

This time however most of the keys still don't work even after replacing (a few do). I also am having trouble getting the ribbon to stay in the motherboard. When I push the clasp back down it doesn't act like the ribbon is staying in place and is very flimsy in place and could easily fall out. I read about blowing out the connector with pressed air, is there any other recomendation on what I might be able to do? I bet you have already solved this, but for other people: I agree, the keyboard cable is one of the hardest things to put back in its correct place. This YouTube video helped me: 'Guide: How to Remove / Replace Macbook Pro Logic Board - Easy & Detailed Instructions' by MrTechEasy.

If the video is not available in the future, here is what he recommends: - Make sure that the socket retainer clip on the backside of the connector is on the up-position (it's the hinge on the back of the socket). Use a flat, plastic thing to lift the keyboard ribbon cable from the underside, so that it bulges up a bit.

Push gently on the top with your finger, on the bulge, so it will gently start sliding into the socket. Keep repeating until it doesn't go in any more. Make sure it's equally inserted across the entire width, so that it's not slightly bent towards one side. Mine went in until only 1mm of the pins were visible on the ribbon cable.

Then close the clasp. Everyone must understand: Official Apple parts are only sold.to. CERTIFIED Apple repair centers, and they aren't allowed to sell them loose. So the ONLY way to get an OFFICIAL keyboard is to pay for an OFFICIAL Apple repair. YES, this means that EVERY keyboard you find on Amazon, eBay, AliExpress, etc is a Chinese COPY. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM! But the copies are GOOD!

I bought from 'JS Mall Limited' at AliExpress:. Price: 5/5.

Material Quality: 5/5. Plastic & metal quality as good as original. Keyboard Feel: 5/5. Typing feels and sounds exactly like original!.

Print Quality: 3/5. The key text is whiter than the original (that's not a bad thing). The print is also off-center by 0.5-1 mm, but you can't expect cheap copycats to perfectly align the printing. I don't care, they're 'centered ENOUGH', only noticeable if you look very close, and you don't stare at keys when typing.

Only a nerd would care about this minor issue. Most importantly, $18 vs $400 (official repair) is an easy choice. Here are some tips for this repair: - If you want a super detailed photo guide, Google 'insidemylaptop How to disassemble MacBook Pro 15″ (Mid 2010) and replace the keyboard'. Do NOT skip the PH000 screwdriver. You will destroy the keyboard screws if you try something larger than a PH00 on them, and a PH000 would be best. If you destroy the tiny screws, you may never be able to remove the old keyboard.

Don't repeat my mistake. I nearly stripped mine and went and bought a PH000 in a panic! - The keyboard cable connector looks weird, it has a blue strip on the backside.

Do not peel that strip! It's supposed to be like that! It adds support to the connectors, which are actually the small lines on the FRONT side of the cable. To re-connect the keyboard cable, you should gently lift and push down on the cable to guide more and more of it into the connector, until it won't got in any further. In my situation I saw about 1mm of the connector markings on the cable when fully seated. One more great tip: People seem to freak out about the backlight, and how 'hard it is' to remove.

It was so easy to remove it nicely and save it for re-use. Just gently slide something under the glue on the sides, so that the glue lifts, and just sloooowly peel it carefully and gently. If you only spilled water, the original backlight you peel off should still work and still be clean. The original Apple backlight outputs a perfectly even light and is the best backlight you can get.

Chinese backlight copies are sometimes said to be uneven, so why take the risk? If you carefully peel the backlight, it will be undamaged, and it's very easy to re-attach.

But I still suggest buying your chinese keyboard replacement WITH a chinese backlight just in case you destroy yours (or you spilled something gross and it's too sticky/dirty to save). 'JS Mall Limited' sold me a package with both keyboard and backlight for about $3 more than just the keyboard. I ended up re-using the original so I never tried theirs. Hey there, I want to replace my keyboard, since i've spilt beer on it.

I successfuly reached the keyboard of my MacBookPro, but i have an issue with some PH000 screws. Some screws just don't want to unscrew, it seems deeply stucked. I am afraid that i might have damaged some screws too, using a PH00 screwdriver instead of a PH000 one.

I don't know how to deal with this tiny PH000 material. 1/ how do you force such a tiny screw to unscrew with minimal damage?

2/ how do you unscrew a stripped PH000 screw? I plan to get a PH000 screwdriver from iFixit, and some new PH000 screw too. But if you have any advice, please let me know folks! Thank you for this guide, I just used it to replace the keyboard on a 17in Macbook Pro and it works. Most of the guide is still relevant to the larger macbook, I also used the ifixit teardown guide. FYI my local hardware store had a Husky 18-piece precision driver set for for about $10, and I used a large zip tie instead of the spudger, it worked just as well. Just a note: It helped me a great deal to keep taking pictures of the repair as I removed each individual component.

The order matters, and it helps distinguish the screw sizes as well. I just did this for my Late 2011 13' MacBook Pro.

A few of the steps are different but if you're confident enough to try this, you probably have the skills to improvise when things look a bit different. I had to load up some procedures specific to my model, like how to remove the CD/DVD drive (and the subwoofer on top of it). This guide needs substantial editing (steps 21 and 22 can be cut because you already removed those cables in step 10, for instance). They also forget to remove the battery cable in the beginning, which is pretty important. But kudos to the author for getting this started. If it wasn't for this guide I wouldn't be able to type the letters D, F, G, H, J, K, and L! My MBP is an A1286 15.4” Family ID: Z0M1 I have NUMEROUS keys that do not work.

Tried to research, and directly OPPOSING “Advice”. About 40% say that My model’s Keyboard is NOT replaceable (part of entire ‘body’). Leaving about 60% saying that it CAN. While, I AM mechanically inclined, I CANNOT AFFORD TO RUIN MY LAPTOP.

Doing copious reading, I pulled the trigger and got all of the Parts, including anti-static mat, whiteboard grid with dbl sided tape to lie screws in correct orientation, as they are removed, (Chinese) Keyboard w/ backlit keys, etc.

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To receive names of the winners by U.S. Mail, please mail a self-addressed stamped envelope to: B&H Foto & Electronics Corp., Attn: B&H $500.00 Gift Card Dash Sweepstakes, 440 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY 10001. Any Winners List request must be received by B&H within one (1) year of the date the Sweepstakes is conducted. Traditional sculpted keytops are curved to fit your fingertips and prevent you from moving out of home position. The symbols at the top of each key are laser-etched to combat wear over the life of the keyboard.

Three USB 2.0 ports let you connect peripherals like mice and flash drives directly to the keyboard, providing easier installation and reducing clutter. Just like an Apple keyboard, the Tactile Pro's function keys now let you control screen brightness, volume, iTunes, and more. A Fn (Function) key lets you momentarily change the function keys back to their traditional duties. Anti-ghosting circuitry allows you to type as quickly as you're able without missing or additional letters and symbols. ™, €, £, ¥, and other hard-to-remember symbols are printed on the right side of the keys. Simply hold down the Option key for the bottom-right characters or Shift-Option for the top-right characters. Rated 5 out of 5 by Deb N.

From Great Spaced Keys for Touch Typist This purchase is actually a replacement for the only keyboard I can use these days with accuracy. Without revealing my age, in the day I worked on an IBM Selectric. Do you know what that is? If yes, keep reading. Have you noticed keys on modern boards are closer together?

If you were trained to touch type, you probably know what I am talking about. The switch in these keys will have a familiar feeling to you, and there will be a lot less spell check needed because the keys are placed where they should be.

At full size. I can type again. Would highly recommend. Rated 4 out of 5 by Hib Halverson from Good replacement keyboard for Mac Ok. Most buy this keyboard because they want the clack-clack nose and feeling of a keyboard with manual switches. I don't care one way or the other about the noise but I do like two things about this keyboard. 1) the feel of the keys as you push them and 2) that there is just a tiny bit more space around each key.

I spent quite a bit of time researching keyboard upgrades and this one was my choice because its a good value. The only negative? Occasionally, on start up, when I have my trackball connected to the USB hub in the keyboard, the trackball is not recognized and I have to disconnect then reconnect the trackball to enable it. Matias has good tech support and they've suggested some solutions but it may also be a problem with the T-ball, itself. Rated 5 out of 5 by macmurf from Exactly what I was hoping for, perfect keyboard.

Keyboard is far easier to use due to direct tactile feedback through keys along with high profile allowing easy location, especially useful for less than professional touch typists like myself. Additionally it serves as an additional USB hub which saves me the expense of purchasing stand alone hub as I was preparing to do. Excellent product and standard excellent, totally professional B&H service. Would recommend product and store to anyone.